Da Towa pities the fool. Note the manly tool bag. |
I really have to blame one friend in particular for this tower, since it came up in the course of a discussion about testing the penetration of textile armor. The object was simple, at first: use a drop tower arrangement to see how much kinetic energy was required to penetrate a sample. The idea went like this in my head:
- Build a tower with a penetrator that was kind of like a sword point.
- ???
- Prof... I mean get results.
Da Towa is born
The operating principle of a drop tower is exactly what it says on the tin: you drop stuff, onto other stuff. Simple, versatile and remarkably effective.My idea became to build a PVC tube to act as a guide for a falling mass, into which I could put a fabric sample. At the bottom of the tube would be a chisel or a punch that would act as the penetrator. Eventually, I'd be able to attach a force transducer and a data acquisition system to the penetrator and get some Really Useful Data. At the top, I could put a pulley and cable system so I could raise and drop the falling mass from different heights, as measured by a tape measure attached to the side.
How hard could it be?
Making a sample holder
The first thing I needed to figure out was if I could construct a sample holder that could reliably hold a garment sample. Because if I couldn't actually hold a sample, there would be no point in building anything else. The sample holder described in CEN EN13567 would need to be custom made, since it involves a particular locking ring arrangement meant to keep fabric from slipping when it hits the penetrator at over 6 m/s and 90 J. While I have the knowledge to make the thing, I lack access to the equipment and didn't want to pay for a custom machined part.So I headed down to my local Home Depot and became that dude hunched over in an aisle that the clerks left alone, because they wanted no part of what he was up to... whatever it was. It certainly wasn't plumbing. As an aside, this is really one of the best parts of mechanical engineering: I've had to do it for school, work and now for my own pet project.
I was finally able to settle on an arrangement of pipe and conduit fittings I liked, that were about the right size compared to the EN13567 sample holder. For reference, mine holds a 58.4mm diameter sample with an exposed area 34.5 mm in diameter, the EN13567 holder is a 68 mm diameter sample with a 35.7 mm diameter exposed area.
Sample holder, first concept. |
Lock washers and reducing washers as used in first concept. |
Yep, I smacked it with a really heavy hammer. Said beastly hammer is seen to the right. |
Handy little lip on the reducing washers. |
Sample holder, second concept. Note duct tape: this one has to work better. |
The second concept parts are as follows, for a cost of roughly 30 USD (not including the BBs). Note that the sizes quoted are not the actual dimensions, but the sizes the parts are sold as (a 2" conduit coupling is larger than 2" in diameter).
- 2" rigid electrical conduit coupling (1x)
- 1-1/4" to 1" rigid electrical conduit reducer washer (8x)
- 2" to 1-1/2" pipe hex reducing bushing (2x)
- 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" pipe hex reducing bushing (1x)
- 1-1/4" x 6" (and 10") pipe nipple (1 ea)
- 1-1/4" PVC female threaded pipe adapter (1x)
- 1-1/4" to 1/2" PVC reducing bushing (1x)
- eye bolt and some washers
The tower body
This part was actually the easiest bit. From the minimum speed in EN13567 of 6/ms, and setting the kinetic energy at impact equal to the potential energy at the maximum height, I was able to calculate a minimum tower height (1.84 m). My garage height is closer to 2.6 m, so I decided to go a bit longer to allow for the sample holder and a higher possible speed.It was then back to Home Depot with my sample holder to figure out what size pipe would work. As it ended up, 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe was about the right inner diameter. So I grabbed a 10' section of it.
The body I cut to 8 feet in length. Because I knew I'd want some sort of door to make changing the sample and penetrator easier, I also cut out a section that I used to make a hatch I could open. The resulting body looked like:
Imagine like 8 feet of this. |
To construct the ends, I grabbed two 3" to 1-1/2" PVC reducing couplers and two 1-1/2" to 1/2" PVC reducing bushings. At the top, one of these reducing couplers with a reducing bushing jammed into it would act as the guide for the thin steel cable that I decided to use to raise and lower the sample holder. At the bottom, the other would help form part of the penetrator holder.
The penetrator and its holder
Since I'd found that 3" schedule 40 PVC was what I was going to build the body out of, and I found the smallest reducing couplers I could at the local store, I had to figure out how to hold the penetrator. But first I had to figure out what exactly that penetrator would be. I knew one thing though: it would be fairly small (the sample impact area is 34.5 mm in diameter), like 1/2" or less.I couldn't easily reproduce the penetrator in EN13567. The standard describes something I'd have to custom machine and harden... not happening in my basement/garage. Instead, I opted for cold chisels and pin punches. The size choice was basically 'find what I can that's close to either a sword point or the 3mm penetrator in EN13567'. My first choice was a 1/2" cold chisel, whose outer diameter at the body was about 3/8". This was a bit too small to nestle into the center of a 1/2" piece of PVC, and I didn't actually want a press-fit because the chisel would need to move a bit to actuate a force transducer. The solution was some rubber O-rings, and the final result looked like this:
The penetrator holder. |
The whole shebang
After attaching the top and the bottom, I found a suitable place in my garage and mounted the tower to my wall. I decided I'd locate it near a power outlet (currently not functional), since eventually I'd want to have electronics hooked up to it.The tower, mounted to my wall. Again note the manly tool bag. |
Then I started dropping stuff to see if everything worked. Because that's what you do. We engineers have a fancy word for it: verification. And if you are planning on changing stuff until it works the way you want: calibration. OK, not quite. But I did need to verify that things worked the way I intended them to work. I headed over to Joann Fabrics and bought the cheapest canvas remnant I could find. It ended up being about 10 oz cotton canvas. I used 2 layers for each sample.
Some of the first tests. |
So I put on my thinking cap, and yanked out the penetrator. For those who don't know, cold chisels are meant for cutting and breaking things. Like metal and concrete. The smaller ones come fairly sharp. My first attempt was to just round the edge off a bit with a file. It came out OK and seemed to help things a bit.
Rounded cold chisel penetrator. |
As I did more tests, I began noticing that the failures at the penetrator seemed to be occuring at one corner, then ripping the fibers open. The penetrator came out, and the thinking cap went back on.
I decided I'd try to knock the included angle down to the 120 degrees that the EN13567 penetrator uses by filing it by hand and ensuring that no edge of the chisel was higher than the center. Using a machinists protractor, a vice and some patience I was able to come pretty close. But I haven't had a chance to test out the new edge yet.
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